Review: Old Luxters Farmhouse, Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire

Arriving at the Old Luxters Farmhouse at Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery this could be the Champagne region. Neat rows of vines growing on south-facing hills. Sun glinting on a white soil of limestone, marl and clay – with added minerality from 150-million-year-old oyster fossils. A chalky seam that swirls north-west from Chablis through the Champagne region, under the Channel, and onto the south of England.

Seven miles north of Henley-on-Thames’ and seven miles west of Marlow this promising terroir was a pig-farm until David Ealand, once a maritime lawyer, purchased the land in 1980 and commissioned a soil analysis. “Grow grapes or rhubarb,” was the recommendation. Farewell pigs.

Some 70 awards later for wine, beer and spirits, visitors drop-in for generous tastings and to stay in comfortable rooms at the timber-beamed farmhouse. 

A mere 40 miles west of London, a stay at Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery is an idyllic retreat of rolling green hills, winding lanes and birdsong. Once England imported wines and exported wine tourists. Now that balance is changing. As the climate warms, the cooler Chiltern Hills provide perfect conditions for sparkling wines and elegant whites. Whisper it quietly; French viticulturists are buying up land with English postcodes. 

The welcome

Having parked across the narrow lane that leads to a cobbled courtyard of chairs, wooden tables and sun umbrellas, we meet Hayley in the shop who guides us to our accommodation and gives us timings for our stay. 

Check-in is at 2.30 pm. Time enough to place luggage in our room and prepare for wine-tasting at 3.00 pm. 

The room

The Pool House Shed, featuring a king-size bed, is charmingly self-deprecating. Few “sheds” have vineyard views and exclusive use of a 12 metres swimming pool heated from May to September. Additionally, there is a hot tub and sauna in use throughout the year. Add in Smart TV, Nespresso coffee machine and a fridge too. 

An irresistible option is sipping, perhaps, a chilled glass of the vineyard’s Bacchus – a Sauvignon-blanc-style-white giving hints of strawberries and cream with a layer of brioche – by the pool. Is this Britain’s most desirable “shed”? 

Alternatively, there are four country style rooms of nooks, crannies and sloping ceilings in the old flintstone and brick farmhouse. Think king-size beds, statement mirrors, hefty dark-wood doors and spacious bathrooms featuring English Aromatics toiletries. Guests enjoy simply trotting down the stairs for a  farmhouse breakfast cooked to order.

The facilities

A tour of the winery and brewery, including tastings of four wines, four ales and four liqueurs, is the star attraction. 

Helen, who sniffed and tasted fruits and spices blindfolded to accentuate her senses in pursuit of her wine-tasting qualification, inducts us into the skills of becoming a “wine detective”. Encouragingly she proclaims, “The more wine you taste, the better you get,” as she swirls a glass of gently chilled Pinot Noir, aerating to heighten the aromas. This light pale ruby red, easy summer drinking, is the latest creation from  Jarred, the South African born winemaker. 

On a south-facing hill, tucked into the folding hills of the Chilterns, tall beech trees protect the vines’ May budburst from late spring frosts. Even the local bats side with the winemakers to gobble up thousands of insects. 

The wine-tasting slides into an introduction to a selection of ales. Pawel, the brewery’s Polish brewer, takes pride in hand-crafting the mash of hops, malt, water and yeast with a mashing stirrer that looks like a holed oar. A Royal Warrant adorns the brewery. The late Prince Phillip was said to be rather partial to Luxters Barn Ale. 

Concluding with a range of liqueurs, a wild peach vodka is a crowd-pleaser as is a damson vodka. Finally, a glass of creamy Irish liqueur awaits in the shop. 

The location

Sat on the Chiltern Cycleway, Luxters courtyard is a welcome stop for both cyclists and walkers. Of course, this gentle landscape is prime Midsomer Murders territory; the vineyard playing the part of a gin distillery in one episode. 

Head south for culture and history amongst Henley-on-Thames’ Georgian facades. There’s a pub where Charles l drank, a Chantry house, a butcher who smokes his own meat, plus a plethora of major events. Book in at Luxters for The Royal Regatta, the Henley Festival, the Literary Festival and the 1980s music Rewind Festival.  Just out of town, Greys Court cared for by the National Trust is another worthy visit; obviously featuring Luxters products in their shop.

Nearby Marlow also features many independent ships, the famous Compleat Angler hotel and yet more opportunities to mess about with boats on the Thames.

Other nice touches

As it’s not advisable to try all of the winery and brewery’s treats on a tasting, the shop offers wine tasting flights and beer tasting flights to catch up on what you may have missed.

Guests, lingering after a morning tasting or arriving early for their afternoon tasting, head for lunch at the food truck; perhaps a sharing board, a charcuterie pizza, fish tacos …

Come evening, the winery offers a taxi service to and from The Stag and Huntsman for dinner in the nearby village of Hambleden. 

The cost

Currently, a Tour and Tasting experience costs £25 per head. 

Rooms with breakfast begin from around £130 per night, through to £275 for the Pool House Shed during peak season.

The best bit

Combine exclusive hire of the five rooms around the farmhouse with an event in Old Luxter’s Barn to celebrate significant birthdays, big anniversaries or simply friends getting together. Keeping it in the family, Lucie Ealand designs celebrations to order. 

The final verdict

A magical countryside retreat, with memorable vineyard tours and tastings, tucked away in the surprisingly peaceful Chiltern Hills, providing a luxurious and relaxed base for exploring the Thames Valley. 

Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery.

Michael Edwards

Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Although Michael had his first travel pieces published nearly four decades ago, he is still finding new luxury destinations to visit and write on.